Saturday, July 31, 2010

Great Aussie Adventure - Day 7 - State 2 and 3!

Today, I think is Friday. Again, it was cloudy and overcast when I left Warrnambool. I went to see another Big Thing, a Milkshake in Allansford this time. These things are so funny!!



Then back down the road to Warrnambool to Flagstaff Hill Maritime Museum and the Southern Ocean!! My plan was just to run into the museum and see Lady Bay Upper and Lady Bay Lower Lighthouses.



The Lady Bay Upper Lighthouse was built in 1859, but was moved, stone by stone to Flagstaff Hill in 1871-72. Originally it was powered by oil and was a fixed white light. It was later run with gas and then electricity, when it was changed too a flashing white light for 1 second every 5 seconds. In 1988, the lighthouse was converted to solar power. It was again changed in 1993 to a 240 volt battery charger. It is 33 meters (108 feet) above sea level and is visible for 6 Nautical Niles. The Lady Bay Upper Lighthouse and the Lady Bay Lower Lighthouse are aligned in such a way that they work together to guide ships into Lady Bay.



The Lady Bay Lower Lighthouse was built in 1859 and moved to Flagstaff Hill in 1871-72, as well. Originally it was called the Beach Lighthouse, but was ineffective as it was too low in elevation. This lighthouse was also originally powered by oil, then gas followed by electricity. The Lady Bay Lower Lighthouse is a fixed light with red and green sectors. It is 27 meters (89 feet) above sea level and is seen for 5 Nautical Miles. Both of these lighthouses are still in use.



There was an interesting sign at the Upper Lighthouse. It says: “There are more than 50,000 lighthouses throughout the world; on Australia’s 36,735 kilometre coastline there are 600; on Victoria’s coastline of 1800 kilometres there are 40---but of these, some are lightships, pile lights, light buoys, beacons and navigational lights. Between Queenscliff and the South Australian border there are 10 lighthouses, with two of them at Warrnambool. These two are know as ‘leading lights’ because, by aligning the white beam of the Upper Lighthouse with the red of the Lower Lighthouse, a safe entry into the harbour is assured. There is a red light at the end of the Breakwater which confused the captain of La Bella ---this line led him onto the reef now know as La Bella Reef. It can be seen where the surf breaks on it just beyond the Breakwater.”



As I said, my idea was to run in an photograph the lighthouses, however, the towns people have turned this museum into a little village set in the 1850’s when the lighthouses were first built and there were many immigrants from Ireland and England coming to this area. I saw the two lighthouses and wandered around the village looking at the stores and ships. I asked a lady if I could take her picture in her 1850’s dress and then she showed me all around her dress makers shop (and finally a photo of me!) While we were talking, another woman from the village came in to talk to the dressmaker and told me I had to stop into the bank to see her on my way out.





So after exploring the village a bit more, I stopped into the bank and the lady told me all about the bank of Australasia in the 1850’s and showed me the prized vault. She asked what I was doing in the area and when I told her I was on a lighthouse tour, she pulled out her folder and showed me her trip to Queenscliff last month. She was shocked that I did not stop to see the lighthouses there this time. She had two photo/postcards of the Black Queenscliff Lighthouse, so she gave me one. She wouldn’t take no for an answer. And she didn’t seem to care that I had seen it before and that’s why I didn’t stop this time!!! But it is a better shot than what I had and since she insisted… So two and a half hours (Oops!!) later, I was on the road again.










I took a 35 minute walk to Lady Griffiths Island in Port Fairy and saw Lady Griffiths Lighthouse. It is cute and since it was so dark and stormy, the lighthouse looked even better!!





This lighthouse was built from local bluestone in 1859. With each course of stones, a long slab was inserted to protrude towards the center, so the stairway with its magnificent spiral sweep is actually part of the wall (of course it is off limits to visitors, but that’s what they say!) The causeway and wall were built to provide safe access in the south westerly gates, which send huge seas crashing onto the area. The keeper’s cottages were demolished in the 1950’s but the lighthouse still operates on wind and solar power. It was originally painted red, but then repainted white in the 1930’s. It is on a ten-second cycle, flashing for 1 second then eclipsed for 2 seconds, flashing for 1 second then eclipsed for 6 seconds and is repeated continuously. It is at the mouth of Moyne River at an elevation of 12.5 meters (41 feet). It is 11 meters (36 feet) tall and can be seen for 12 Nautical Miles.



Then I drove to Portland. I drove through Killarny and Belfast on the way and both towns were flying the Irish/Northern Ireland flags rather than the Australian flag. I didn’t realize that I had driven so far (and was so lost!!) But then I made it to Portland. I found this funny since I have lived in Portland, Oregon and Portland, Maine and saw all the lighthouses in those states, and now I was in Portland, Victoria seeing the lighthouses there!!



There are two lighthouses in Portland. Whaler's Bluff Lighthouse (very cute, up on top of the cliff) and Cape Nelson Lighthouse (where I missed the tour by 30 minutes!!



Whalers Bluff Lighthouse got its name from the treacherous Whaler’s Reef leading into Portland Harbour. It was built in 1859 on Battery Point, but moved to it’s current location in 1889 to make way for gun emplacements on Battery Point and so that it would be less vulnerable to attack. It was also moved stone by stone. It flashes white and red every 10 seconds. It is 41 meters (135 feet) above sea level, is 12 meters (39 feet) tall and is visible for 15 Nautical Miles.



(And Dad, sometimes the signs do point out to me where to go!! It just didn‘t say Laura!) But I was able to get some nice photos anyway. I’m not sure how, but I got lost in Portland for about 30 minutes. It’s a small town, so I don’t know how that was possible!! Only me I guess!



In the Cape Nelson Park, there is a cool windmill farm. The Cape Nelson Lighthouse was lit in 1884. The cutters ran out of the blue stone from the area, and thought about using steam bricks from Melbourne to complete the tower. Luckily, they found more just 11km’s away, but ended up carting it 21kms via Portland as there was no direct road! In 1890, an auxiliary light was added to the base. It was replaced with an incandescent vaporised kerosene mantle in 1907, was upgrades to electricity in 1934, and converted to mains power in 1987. In the 1884, there was the “Russian Scare”, so a telescope was brought to the lighthouse. It had an object glass of 10cm in diameter and was to be used “to sweep the horizon to a distance of 25-30miles and scrutinize passing ships of hostile intent”. It is said to be the biggest of its kind in the Western District. It is 32 meters (105 feet) tall and can be seen for 21 Nautical Mile. It flashes white 4 times in 20 seconds.





With my previous trip to Victoria, I have seen all the lighthouses I can see in Victoria. There are only 4 that I haven’t seen, 2 of which are on islands and inaccessible, 1 burned down, and the 4th one is accessible, but only by an 8 hour hike into the lighthouse, followed by and 8 hour hike back to the car. So I skipped that one!!

And then it was on to Port MacDonnell. On the way to Port MacDonnell, I crossed the border into South Australia. (Weird side note - it was raining off and on the entire day as I was in Victoria, but as soon as I crossed the border, the sun came out!! I was reminded of the time I was driving from Washington State into Oregon, it was raining the whole drive down in Washington and as soon as I crossed the Columbian River into Portland Oregon, the sun came out!) (And the speed limit in SA is now 110 - 68 miles per hour!)



Anyway, I saw the old lighthouse site and ruins, not to mention a fairy penguin colony and a beautiful sunset with interesting rock formations in the ocean - Camel Rock, Frog Rock and Rhino Rock. (Another weird side note - the entire day was cloudy and overcast and seemed to be sunset all day - the sun was behind the clouds most of the day - and the clouds were always pink and orange - very pretty, but weird at noon!) Also at Port MacDonnell, is the Cape Northumberland Lighthouse. I got some nice photos from the old site ruins. This new lighthouse is inaccessible because there are people living in the old lighthouse keepers cottage and it is a private residence. (How cool would that be?) So I just had to admire it from afar.



The lighthouse at Cape Northumberland was not the first light in this area. The original was under threat of being undermined by the erosion of the cliffs where it stood. The original was built in 1858 and shone white, red and green in succession. It was supposed to be a fixed light, but the mariners at the time feared the light may be confused with a bush fire, and so it was the three colors. It was here only 23 years before being demolished. The original lighthouse was called Port MacDonnell Lighthouse.



The new lighthouse (Cape Northumberland) was built in 1882, 400 meters to the east. It originally flashed every 60 seconds. In 1906, the oil burners were replace by incandescent vaporized kerosene burners and then in 1936, was changed to electricity. In December 1972, the electric operation was converted to tungsten halogen and then was automated in July 1977. In January 1990, the lighthouse was demanned. Since this lighthouse was so close to Portland, the light keepers were less isolated. In fact, Cape Northumberland and Cape Jaffa were the only 2 lighthouses in South Australia where the keepers children could attend government schools. Supposedly the lighthouse is haunted by a women dressed in 1950’s clothing. The light flashes white every 5 seconds, is 45 meters (148 feet) above sea level, is 17 meters (56 feet) tall and is visible for 23 Nautical Miles.


Rhino Rock (back) and Frog Rock Front


Camel Rock and Penguins on Camel Rock



I started the day seeing a Big Thing and ended the day with a Big Thing, a Wave.



My hope was to get to Carpenter Rocks and see Cape Banks Lighthouse before the sun went down, but because of my extra time in Warrnambool Maritime Museum, I was not able to make it before the sun went down. Even with the time change (I gained ½ hour when I entered into South Australia)! But I did find out that it’s going to be $240 for me to get to and from Kangaroo Island to see the lighthouses there, so I was not to worried that I’m off schedule today. But tomorrow I plan on doing a little bit of sight seeing (non-lighthouse) in Mount Gambier since this is where I am spending the night. But stay tuned until tomorrow and I’ll let you know what I ended up doing!!
Thursday, July 29, 2010

Great Aussie Adventure - Day 6 - State 2!



Today I woke up in Healesville, Victoria. It was again cloudy and drizzling. But I headed toward Marysville. If this sounds familiar, it should. It was one of the towns that was wiped out by the bush fires in February 2009. The drive up to Marysville was interesting. There were trees trunks that were completely black and charred, but they also had green leaves spiraling up the trunk and coming off of the trunk. Of course, as I was driving, I was unable to photograph it. But the drive up was pretty, very green and the sun was peaking through every now and then and it was drizzling. Very nice.



Then once I got to Marysville, there was so much construction going on on the houses and buildings. There were so many black tree stumps and buildings that were demolished and blackened. But there were also so many new houses and supermarkets, etc. And since it’s fall, the leaves in this mountain town were really pretty. Red and orange and yellow. It was too sad for me to stay for very long (plus it’s a small town), so I left after 45 minutes.





I then went the wrong way (again) near Melbourne on the toll roads, so I bypassed (accidentally) Brighton Beach which has colored swimming shacks. But luckily, outside Frankston, there were more colored swimming shacks. I’m not sure why they are so famous, but I sure liked seeing them.




Then I made my way to McCrae and found Eastern Channel Lighthouse (AKA McCrae Lighthouse, AKA Dromana Lighthouse, AKA Rosebud Lighthouse, AKA Southern Channel Lighthouse). It is a nice looking lighthouse. It is situated at the South Channel on the eastern side of Port Phillip Bay and is the tallest on mainland Victoria. It is in the town of McCrae, in between the towns of Dromana and Rosebud. This light has not been operational since 1994, but it did flash every 15 seconds and could be seen for 13 Nautical Miles. (See attached photo for more info! I started copying the signs, but I was a bit tired of typing!







Then I got on the ferry from Sorrento to Queenscliff and saw the three lighthouses there. Since I’ve already seen the three lighthouses, the Great Ocean Road and the 12 Apostles, I took the quicker route inland to Warrnambool where I am spending the night. Warrnambool is on the Far East Victorian Coast, on the Southern Ocean. Since it was cloudy and rainy, there was another great sunset! I had another great dinner. Fish and chips this time at a brewery and one of the beers they brewed! Very nice!! On the road, I drove through a town named Colac, which is the sister city to Walker, Michigan!!



I was unsure about doing this trip in the fall/winter, but it’s good, just cold! But because it is the off peak, I’ve gotten really good rates on hotels and since the sun goes down at 5ish, it’s forced me to stop driving earlier than I would if it was lighter later. But that’s enough for now.

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Denver, Colorado, United States
I'm originally from Colorado, but I've been living in Australia for three years. Before that, I lived all over the U.S.: Washington State, Maine, California, Oregon, Nebraska, North Carolina, Arizona, New Mexico, Pennsylvania, and more... No, I'm not a military brat or a military wife; I was a traveling nurse for 5 years so I moved to a new city every 3 months. During my travels, I became intrigued with lighthouses and started making plans to photograph as many as I could in whichever state I was living (including the two in Nebraska!) My blog is about my trips to various lighthouses, as well as other interesting trips. I hope you enjoy reading, and leave a comment or two!