Saturday, August 28, 2010

Great Aussie Adventure - Day 19

It was 6.4°C (43.5°F) when I headed out of Perth this morning!! I backtracked a bit to Fremantle to find North Mole Lighthouse. This one is cute as it is painted red!! This lighthouse works with the South Mole Lighthouse across the harbour. The North Mole Lighthouse was built in 1906 although it was supposed to be built first. It took 3 years for the earthworks to settle. This lighthouse is 15 meters (49 feet) tall and is seen for 10 Nautical Miles. It is a fixed red light.




North Mole Lighthouse viewed from South Mole Lighthouse, with Wadjemup Lighthouse on far left on Rottnest Island.


Wadjemup and Bathurst Lighthhouses on Rottnest Island

From here, I could see South Mole Lighthouse, Woodman Point Lighthouse and the two lighthouses on Rottnest Island. I had seen Woodman Point Lighthouse on Monday and was going to see South Mole Lighthouse when I was done here. It was nice to see Wadjemup and Bathurst Lighthouses on Rottnest Island because I would not be seeing them on the island itself. (They were way in the distance, but I could just make them out!) The island does not allow cars, and I’d have to walk to the lighthouses, and I would not be able to do it in a day before the ferry came back (it only leaves Fremantle early in the morning and returns once at 3pm.) Darn island is to big!! The only accommodation on the island is resorts and you are required to stay at least 3 nights! So that was out, but what can you do? The current Wadjemup Lighthouse is the second lighthouse on this site. The first was Western Australia’s first lighthouse and the second lighthouse here has Australia’s first rotating beam. This lighthouse flashes every 7.5 seconds. It is 80.5 meters (264 feet) above seal level, is 38.7 meters (127 feet) tall and is visible for 26 Nautical Miles. Originally the island was settled by Europeans in 1831, but was taken over by the Government in 1839 and used as an Aboriginal penal colony. The first lighthouse was completed in 1849, built by Aboriginal convicts. It took 9 years to build the 20 meter (66 feet) lighthouse, which was 3 meters (10 feet) shorter than originally planned. It was the first lighthouse to be built of stone in Western Australia. It was not operational until 1851. Originally the light flashed for 5 seconds and was seen for 18 Nautical Miles. This lighthouse was demolished in 1896 when the new lighthouse was built. The new lighthouse on Wadjemup Hill (in the center of the island) was twice as tall and had a more powerful lamp. (The designer of the this lighthouse was the same one who designed the Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse.) It was built of limestone found in the near by cove. The light was made semi-automatic in 1936 and then converted to fully automatic in 1986. The lighthouse was demanned in 1990.

The other light on the island is Bathurst Lighthouse. This lighthouse is on the Northeast corner of the island. It is a subsidiary light to the Wadjemup Hill Lighthouse. It was built in 1900 from local limestone and is a result of many shipwrecks in 1899. It has a group flashing four times every 16 seconds. It is 30 meters (98 feet) above sea level, is 19.2 meters (63 feet) tall and is visible for 24 Nautical Miles. It is painted white and has a gold dome. It was demanned in 1920 and became fully automatic in 1986. (I am disappointed that I couldn’t see these after reading about them, but there you go!!)




I then drove around the harbour and arrived at South Mole Lighthouse. (I’m sure that in a boat, it would take 3 or 4 minutes, but in a car, it took 20!) This lighthouse is the exact height and shape etc as North Mole Lighthouse, but this one is green!! I loved it - green being my favorite color and all, (I think it brings out my eyes.) Like the North Mole Lighthouse, this one is 15 meters (49 feet) tall and is visible for 11 Nautical miles. Originally, this light was fixed green, but after 100 years of service, the light was fitted with a white occulting light in 2003. A week later, it was given the green light back.


South Mole Lighthouse from North Mole Lighthouse

Anyway, I headed back towards Perth as this is where I was going to catch the freeway North to the next lighthouse. However, I missed my exit onto the freeway and ended up back in Kings Park. I drove around the park and city trying to get out for a good 45 minutes!!! Anyway, the next time I had no problem getting on the freeway heading north!

I ended up in Guilderton and found the lighthouse there. Guilderton is on the Moore River, which empties into the Indian Ocean. Again, it was a beautiful afternoon and the water and the sky and beaches looked lovely. The Guilderton Lighthouse reminded me of the Tourbridge Hill Lighthouse in Edithburgh, SA. (Funny side note - there are not overtaking (passing) lanes on most of the highways here in WA. It is just one lane each direction. I think it’s because there are always enough flat and unwinding roads so that you can pass the trucks at any time. For some reason, I noted this a lot on my drives!)





Moore River



This lighthouse was built in 1983 and was fully automated at this time. (At this point, 40 guilder coins were found from a ship that was wrecked in 1656!) This was the last lighthouse to be built in Western Australia. This lighthouse is 77 meters (253 feet) above sea level, is 30 meters (98 feet) tall and is visible for 22 Nautical Meters. It flashes 3 times in 20 seconds. This tower was constructed using specially tapered red clay bricks. It has a 7.5 meter (24.6 feet) diameter base.

From here I started out toward Geraldton, but saw signs for the Pinnacles in the Nambung National Park. I though I’d better stop, since when will I see this again? I’m so glad I did!! This is just beautiful. The Pinnacles are limestone pillars that have developed in the dessert here over millions of years.




The best way to describe these pinnacles is to quote the signs at the national park. “Enigmas in Stone - How were the pinnacles made? How old are they? Why do they exist here in such abundant and spectacular form? In geological terms, the pinnacles are very young and scientists today are just beginning to unravel their many mysteries. The pinnacles are believed to have formed underground, possibly up to 500,000 years ago during the Ice Ages of the Quaternary period. They may have remained buried for most of this time, or have been repeatedly exposed and buried again over the millennia. Evidence suggests that they were exposed around 6,000 years ago, but were again covered by shifting sands until only a few hundred years ago.
“From dune - Scientists believe that the story of the pinnacles begins off shore, where shell fragments break down to form fine-grained sand rich in calcium carbonate (lime). At the water’s edge, beach sands accumulate as a mixture of shell-based sands from the ocean floor and quartz sands carried by the rivers from the hinterlands. Blown by strong winds, the beach sands form extensive dunes along much of the coastline.
“… to limestone - As rainwater comes into contact with the dune sands, it dissolves the calcium carbonate grains. As the dunes dry out, the calcium carbonate recrystallises and cements nearby sand grains together, forming limestone. This process underlies the formation of the pinnacles.
“… to pinnacle - Just how limestone formed in the shape of pinnacles continues to puzzle scientists. Current research favours two explanations. In both, plants act as a critical catalyst. Both also remain controversial and may be challenged as new research takes place.”



Pinnacles with the ocean in the background



And from this desert national park, you can see the ocean! It just blows my mind. There is a 4km (2.5 miles) drive through the park, but this 4 kms took me 2 hours!! I would get out of the Pajero every little parking area to walk around and look at the different size and shapes of the pillars. I was going to leave, but one of the park rangers said that a lot of people stay for sunset and since it was 5pm, I thought I should stay. And then I thought, I didn’t have a hotel room booked yet and I didn’t want any problems like I did over the weekend, and I was hungry. So I headed to the restroom again before the long drive to the next stop, and then I headed back out to the 4km drive to watch the sunset. I know, I know, I’m very indecisive!!! But it was a great sunset over the Indian Ocean and interesting to see the limestone pillars in different lighting.




Duck Pinnacle






Kangaroo!! (Well the back half anyway!)




You can almost see me in photo above right.





Then I drove like a crazy person to Dongara to find a hotel and a bite to eat. I got in at 7:30pm and was so glad as a lot of hotel receptions close at 8pm. But the hotel has a great tavern attached to it and I had a delicious burger and beer. (Good thing too since when I was out with Carrieann and Paul on Monday, we were going to have Chinese or pub food, and since we had Chinese, I’d been craving a burger, and this huge one hit the spot!) While I was waiting for dinner, I looked through a local travel brochure and found out what I’m going to do in the morning before heading up to the lighthouse in Geraldton! Stay tuned!

P.S. TT - this journey to Dongara in the dark reminded me of the time you and I were driving to Seattle and you were driving during the night through Wyoming and the deer! But here it’s roos, rather than deer.

2 comments:

TheresaB said...

Ah yes, I think about that drive too on roadtrips! Funny that it sticks out in our minds, although nothing ever ended up happening!

Laura said...

Good times!! But also kinda scary!

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About Me

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Denver, Colorado, United States
I'm originally from Colorado, but I've been living in Australia for three years. Before that, I lived all over the U.S.: Washington State, Maine, California, Oregon, Nebraska, North Carolina, Arizona, New Mexico, Pennsylvania, and more... No, I'm not a military brat or a military wife; I was a traveling nurse for 5 years so I moved to a new city every 3 months. During my travels, I became intrigued with lighthouses and started making plans to photograph as many as I could in whichever state I was living (including the two in Nebraska!) My blog is about my trips to various lighthouses, as well as other interesting trips. I hope you enjoy reading, and leave a comment or two!