Saturday, July 17, 2010

Great Aussie Adventure - Day 3

Today is Monday, and I woke in Strahan (pronounced like strong without the g.) I got on the cruise ship and set out for a 6 hour tour. I thought we were going to see 2 lighthouses, but it turns out we saw 3!!! Imagine my excitement! I knew about Hells Gate and Cape Sorell, but once we got to Hells Gate (the name for the hazardous area leading into Macquarie Harbour) there was Bonnet Island Lighthouse and Entrance Island Lighthouse!! There are two Hells Gate Lighthouses!! Very exciting! And then we sailed through Hells Gate and into the open water to Cape Sorell and the lighthouse there. Interesting note - had we continued to sail due west from our current location, we would have ended up in South America or South Africa (I can't remember which country the captain said!!) I think the captain said it was 400 nautical miles, but since we didn’t have enough beer on board, we wouldn’t attempt it today! Who cares about enough fuel, we needed more beer!



Cape Sorell Lighthouse (listen to captains commentary - sorry if anyone gets seasick watching, I was trying to film and get photos with my other camera at the same time!) was commissioned here to mark the entrance into Macquarie Harbour and the other two lighthouses were placed here as a reminder to ships of the high rock line and steer the ships through this treacherous area by sailing between the two lights.

You will note the houses here and may find it interesting that there are no roads leading to the houses. The cars and all the goods are shipped to the houses and the light keepers! I’m still not sure why there are cars and trucks here if there are no roads - where do they drive to?


After leaving the lighthouses, it’s only a 20 minute ride to Cape Sorell, we went to the fish farms. They raise salmon and trout. We saw about 20 farms and one ship feeding the fish and a second ship bringing in the fish. The farmers inject CO2 (I think) into the water to remove the O2 and the fish become unconscious and it’s easier for the farmers to catch and kill them. It was kind of sad, but our lunch on the cruise was salmon. Since we didn’t get close enough to see the live salmon (it stresses them out), I didn’t feel too bad eating lunch. Plus it was delicious!!



Before lunch, we walked around Sarah Island which was a penal colony in the 1830’s. Originally it was a male and female colony, but the women were too bad and had to be removed to Port Arthur out side Hobart. (You may remember my other trip to Port Arthur in October.) The men remained on Sarah Island and were first time repeat offenders (second + repeat offenders were sent to Port Arthur.) I don’t remember what crimes the women committed to end up here in the first place, as the men were repeat fraud and embezzlement offenders.




We then got back on the ship and went up the Gordon River and had lunch. This is a tidal river. The tide from the ocean pushes salt water up the river, but because there is so much fresh water runoff flowing down the river, the salt water never makes it to the top of the river and trees grow out of the river. Also the water is suitable for drinking. Our captain said the river is alive at night with the wildlife here. Wombats, Tasmanian Devils, possums, etc. He said if we kept our eyes peeled we might even see a Tasmanian Tiger, but since it was daytime, it was doubtful. Also they are believed to be extinct (since 1934 or 36), and our captain said he hadn’t seen one in 4 years. The water was so still and the reflections were just amazing!!



After lunch we had a 30 minute walk through a rain forest and saw the Huon pine. These trees were the main source of logging (pining) in this area in the 1930’s. Lovely trees and very sturdy. They also don’t rot and can bend without breaking, so you can imagine how good they are for building boats!



Then back on the boat to Strahan, where we walked through a working saw mill. Huon pines of course.



The cruise was over at 3pm rather the 1pm as I was counting on. (Note to self - look up cruise times on internet before leaving next time!) And then the drive through the mountains took an hour longer than I thought (I did look up the drive times - whereis.com.au like the US mapquest.com, but I don’t think it took into account the windy S curving roads out of Strahan for 86+ km’s (53+ miles)!! But it was a pretty drive through forests and national parks. (Well pretty until the sun set at 5pm and all the wildlife came out and the car radio conked out!) I may have been more alert because I was not singing along with CD’s and the animals walking on the side of the road were easily missed!! I saw so many possums, an occasional wallaby, and even a wombat! (Wombats, possums and roos, Oh My!!) The drive out of Strahan reminded me of the pass outside of Breckenridge (Mom, you know the one I’m talking about) and I was looking out for deer. Right at dusk, I saw something hopping across the highway (one lane each direction) and wondered to myself what could it be? Deer don’t hop! Then I remembered I’m in Australia, not Colorado and I thought, of course, the hopping thing was a wallaby! Since the drive took a hour longer and the cruise was 2 hours longer than anticipated, I am spending the night in Hobart. From here, Bruny Island is a 2 hour drive and then a 30 minute ferry ride to the island, a 30 minute drive from North Bruny (paved road) to the South Island and an hour drive on a dirt road one way. So I’m going to miss the Bruny Island Lighthouse. Tuesday was going to be jam packed anyway, so I had to make a cut somewhere and a 3 ½ hour drive on the island alone is going to be a lot!! But stayed tuned for what I did end up doing on Tuesday, I hope it’s a good day!
The river boat captain mentioned that it rains 300 days per year in Tasmania. I was lucky to be there on one of the 65 days that hit didn’t rain. Plus one lighthouse on Mon = - 1 lighthouse on Tues. it’s only fair!!
Friday, July 16, 2010

Great Aussie Adventure - Day 2

Well, I woke up today (Sunday May 23 - Happy Birthday Adam!) and found the Mersey Bluff lighthouse - the one that is on the cover of the travel magazines!! You will notice that the red strips are only on the front of the lighthouse and the back of the lighthouse is all white! Very pretty though. So, far it is my favorite lighthouse in Tasmania!! I wandered around Devonport and found the two small lights that I can only assume work with the little one I saw last night. I also noticed some lovely houses (that reminded me of New England) and a little park with a fountain and memorials.



The Mersey Bluff Lighthouse is at the mouth of the Mersey River. It flashes 4 times in 20 seconds. It is 37 meters (121 feet) above sea level and the white part of the lighthouse can be seen (during the day) from 17 nautical miles and the red part, for 14 nautical miles. It is 13 meters (34 feet) tall. It was established in 1889 and is built of bricks on a stone base. In 1910, the original kerosene lamp was converted to acetylene gas, and then in 1920, it was again converted, to electric this time and demanned. In 1978 it was connected to mains power. Once this lighthouse was built, it ended a history of shipswrecks in the area.





From Devonport, I drove to Penguin (that’s the name of the town, for real!) There were penguins on the public trash cans and on various businesses! And then of course there was the Big Thing Penguin.


From there, I found Round Hill Point Lighthouse, just a small light outside of Chasm Creek.



After Chasm Creek is Table Cape lighthouse, outside of Wyndham. This lighthouse is very pretty. There was a child’s grave there. The boy was the son of the first light keeper who worked at this lighthouse. In the spring, this area is full of tulips. I can only imagine what it looks like with all the different color flowers!! The area was still very pretty and colourful with the grass and dirt.



The Table Cape area was first settled and developed by the Van Dieman’s Land Company in the 1820’s. Originally, Mr. C.B.M. Fenton, a former mariner, kept a light burning in the front window of his house to guide mariners at night. Then, in 1870, two iron beacons were set up at the mouth of the Inglis River. After several shipwrecks, Table Cape was picked as the sight for the lighthouse because of it’s spectacular flat topped promontory with it’s sheer drop to the sea. In 1888, the lighthouse was built, as was the keepers cottages. Originally it was built of bricks and painted white. Three weeks after the lighthouse was opened, the head keeper’s son, Bertie, died when he was 14 months old. It is not know how he died, but the head keeper wrote in his logbook, “Wind south. A strong breeze and misty weather. Employed in the lighthouse and cleaning up about station. At 5.10 p.m. Bertie Jackson, son of the head light keeper, departed this life aged one year and two months." It was decided that Bertie be buried near the lighthouse were his family could tend to his grave.
Originally, the light was powered by an oil burner and was manually tendered. According to Bertram Jackson, younger son of first keeper, Robert Jackson wrote, “The lamp had to be lit every day, as soon as the sun dipped into the sea, and it had to be kept alight all the time until the sun rose again. There were always three of them as I remember it, and they each took a turn to watch the light. They used a special oil called mineral colza, which used to be carted up in big drums by bullock wagon. It was a very clear, white light, and better than kerosene because it caused less soot."
The light was converted to vaporised kerosene in 1913. At this time, the number of keepers was decreased from 3 to 2. Then in 1920, the lighthouse was converted to automatic acetylene and the lighthouse was demanned in 1923. The keepers cottages were demolished in 1926. The lantern room was rebuilt and electricity was connected to lamp in 1979. This light flashes twice in 10 seconds. The lighthouse is 180 meters (590 feet) above sea level and is 25 meters (82 feet) tall. It can been seen for 32 nautical miles.



From Wyndham, I drove to Stanley. The original light from the Highfield Bluff lighthouse has been relocated to the wharf area. The Highfield Bluff Lighthouse is on top of the hill on farm land and not accessible to the public. I figured that it would be closer to the road, but it was not. You might be able to kinda see it if you squint your eyes and turn your head just so! I zoomed in as close as possible with the camera, but I could barely see it from the other side of the fence, it was so far away! Oh well.


Stanley is a cute little town, and there is another Big Thing here. This time a lobster on the local seafood shop! (Aussies and their Big Things! You can find out more about them if you Google Big Things + Australia.)



Then I headed to Rocky Cape National Park. On the way it looked like it was going to pour down rain. (Funny side note, I was listening to a CD and the song Rain came on - in the song, the chorus says “Rain, rain, go away, come again another day. All the world is waiting for the sun.” and out came the sun!! Thank you Breaking Benjamin! And when I got into the National Park, the sun was out. It’s still freezing cold, but at least with the sun out, it looks really great in photos! And the national park is beautiful!! And of course, Rocky Cape lighthouse is there.


This lighthouse was built in 1968 in Rocky Cape National Park. My map said “once inside the national park access is via unsealed roads. It is poorly signed so take fork to the left of the shanty town then right.” I must have been coming from a different direction, because I drove right up to the lighthouse, never went past a shanty town or any forks in the road!! But that’s good news! This lighthouse flashes once in 10 seconds. It is 64 meters (210 feet) above sea level and is 9 meters (30 feet) tall. It can be seen for 21 nautical miles.



From Rocky Cape, I drove South through the mountains to Strahan. This drive took close to 3 hours, but it was amazing. Cradle Mountain was in the distance, as were several other peaks, I’m not sure what their names are. Then for 11 km’s (6.8 miles)I was driving through a rain forest and the roads were winding and I was getting a little car sick! And then at 3PM or so, the sun was at a funny angle behind me and the shadows cast on the mountains were amazing! I made it to Strahan by 4:30 and was able to book a cruise for the morning to see 1 or 2 lighthouses tomorrow. I drove around the town at sunset and was able to get some great shots of the sun going down! But until tomorrow…

Thursday, July 15, 2010

Great Aussie Adventure - Day 1


Today(Saturday, May 22, 2010) was the start of my Great Aussie Adventure/lighthouse trip. I began by flying from Sydney to Launceston, Tasmania. I did not believe the pilot when he said it was 4°C (39°F) in Launceston. I was sure I misheard and he really said 24 (75°F), but once I stepped off the plane I knew he was telling the truth!! So I got into my little Hyundai Getz and headed towards Low Head (AKA Georgetown), an hour north of Launceston. Georgetown claims to be Australia’s oldest town. Here I found Low Heads Lighthouse, She Oaks Lighthouse and The Middle Channel Lighthouse (AKA Navigational Lead Light.) These three lighthouses make up the Tamar River lights. Very good first day!!


Low Head Lighthouse originally was a light station established in 1805. It is Australia’s oldest continuously used pilot station. In 1827, it was decided to built a lighthouse and in 1833, it was converted to a light station. This is Australia’s third and Tasmania’s second lighthouse. It was originally called the Georgetown Station. Today it flashes three times in 30 seconds. It is 43 meters (141 feet) above sea level and is 19 meters (62 feet) tall. It can be seen for 23 nautical miles (22 miles or 35 K’s). This lighthouse was necessary as there were 12 shipwrecks in the Tamar River from 1808 to 1908. In the early 1800’s, when a ship was sighted at dusk, a fire was lit and kept burning during the night to keep the ship in touch with the port. Low Heat Lighthouse was built of local rubble with a coat of stucco to make it durable. The crown was built of freestone from Launceston. The keepers’ quarters were 4 rooms attached to the base of the tower (which is the only case of the quarters being attached in any Tasmanian lighthouses.) The lantern room was built of timber in Launceston. Colonial Architect John Lee Archer was the designer. Originally, there was a head light keeper and two convict assistants who were locked in their quarters at night. (The convicts, not the head keeper!!) In 1833 the original convict-built stone tower was demolished and it was replaced with the present double brick structure. In 1835, a revolving shutter was installed and was rotated byweight-driven clockwork mechanism. And in 1916, it was updated with a revolving lens and an incandescent kerosene mantle lantern. The broad red band was painted in 1926 so that it was visible during the day. In 1929, Tasmania’s only foghorn was installed at the lighthouse, but discontinued in 1973. In 1940, electricity replaced the old vaporised oil system and mantle, and the clockwork rotating mechanism was replaced by an electric motor. The light station was also responsible for the smaller Tamar Leading Lights which were separately manned. The light stations are now unmanned.

Then I drove towards Devonport, passing the Batman Bridge. Once in Devonport, I found what I thought was the lighthouse, but it didn’t look like the one in my travel magazines. As it was 5pm and getting dark, the visitor center was closed. But the girl at the hotel gave me a map to find the proper lighthouse. Funny as it’s Tasmania’s most photographed lighthouse and I couldn’t figure out why it didn’t look right! But I’ll see it first thing in the morning. However, since the fire fighters are back burning here, the sunset was lovely - all pink and purple and orange because of the smoke, so I was able to get some really nice photos of the little lighthouse!
I can’t help but wonder if this trip was a good idea in fall. It gets dark at 5pm and I’m heading further south tomorrow (don’t forget - South in the Southern Hemisphere is away from the equator and therefore colder and darker!!) Tomorrow will be closer to Antarctica!


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Denver, Colorado, United States
I'm originally from Colorado, but I've been living in Australia for three years. Before that, I lived all over the U.S.: Washington State, Maine, California, Oregon, Nebraska, North Carolina, Arizona, New Mexico, Pennsylvania, and more... No, I'm not a military brat or a military wife; I was a traveling nurse for 5 years so I moved to a new city every 3 months. During my travels, I became intrigued with lighthouses and started making plans to photograph as many as I could in whichever state I was living (including the two in Nebraska!) My blog is about my trips to various lighthouses, as well as other interesting trips. I hope you enjoy reading, and leave a comment or two!